13 Indoor Succulents That Thrive in Low Light Conditions for Plant Beginners

Indoor succulents have completely changed my plant-parent life, and I bet they could change yours too. When I first started growing houseplants, I killed nearly everything until I discovered these wonderful, forgiving plants that actually thrive on a bit of neglect.

Succulents are perfect for busy people, beginners, or anyone who wants beautiful plants without dedicating their entire weekend to plant care.

I’ve spent years experimenting with different succulent varieties in my small apartment with less-than-ideal lighting conditions. Through plenty of trial and error (and yes, some crispy plant casualties along the way), I’ve discovered which succulents truly flourish indoors.

The good news is that many succulents will thrive inside your home year-round, bringing joy and a touch of nature to your space without demanding constant attention.

1) Snake Plant

I’ve always believed that the perfect houseplant should forgive you when you forget about it for weeks. That’s why the Snake Plant tops my list of must-have indoor succulents!

This tough-as-nails plant has been my faithful companion through three apartment moves and countless watering mishaps. Its tall, sword-like leaves with gorgeous yellow edges make it both striking and architectural in any room.

What makes Snake Plants truly special is their incredible adaptability. They actually thrive with minimal attention and can handle low light conditions that would kill most other succulents. My bathroom Snake Plant has been thriving for years with just a north-facing window!

Unlike fussier plants, Snake Plants don’t mind if you forget to water them. In fact, they prefer to dry out completely between waterings. I’ve found that watering mine once every 3-4 weeks works perfectly.

One thing I love about Snake Plants is their air-purifying abilities. They’re one of the few plants that convert CO2 to oxygen at night, making them perfect bedroom companions. I keep one on my nightstand!

While most succulents need bright light, Snake Plants are the exception. They do well in low-light conditions, though they’ll grow faster with more sun. My darkest corner has a Snake Plant that’s slow-growing but perfectly healthy.

If you’re just starting your plant journey, I can’t recommend Snake Plants enough. They’re practically indestructible! I once left mine without water for two months during a holiday, and it greeted me with the same stoic resilience when I returned.

2) Jade Plant

I’ve had a soft spot for jade plants since my college days. That first little cutting from my aunt’s massive jade has turned into a beautiful, tree-like specimen that sits proudly by my sunniest window. These plants are incredibly resilient—perfect for beginners or forgetful waterers like me!

Jade plants (Crassula ovata) have thick, fleshy leaves that store water, making them super drought-tolerant. Their thick elephantine trunks topped with shiny oval leaves create a miniature tree appearance that adds character to any room. I love how they develop a woody stem as they age—it gives them such personality!

These plants can be quite the slow-growers, so don’t worry if yours doesn’t shoot up overnight. My first jade barely changed for months before it started branching out. They’re playing the long game and take a long time to grow, but the wait is worth it.

For the happiest jade plant, place it in a bright spot. I’ve found that mine thrives in my south-facing window where it gets plenty of sunshine. The leaves actually develop a pretty red tinge when they get enough light!

Watering is where most folks go wrong with jades. Let the soil dry completely between waterings—I’m talking bone dry! I check by sticking my finger about an inch into the soil. If there’s any moisture, I wait another few days.

The Lemon and Lime variety is one of my favorites, with its gorgeous variegated leaves. The thick, fleshy foliage stores water brilliantly, helping these plants withstand dry indoor conditions when you forget to water (we’ve all been there!).

3) ZZ Plant

I’ll never forget the first time I spotted a ZZ plant in a dimly lit office corner. It was thriving while other plants looked sad and droopy. That’s when I knew this was a special succulent!

The ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) is incredibly forgiving and perfect for beginners. It’s known for surviving just about any condition you put it in. I’ve accidentally neglected mine for weeks, and it just kept on growing.

What makes ZZ plants so amazing is their ability to thrive in lower light conditions. This makes them perfect for those darker corners of your home where other plants would sulk.

In their natural habitat, ZZ plants grow in shady forests in southeastern Africa. I find it fascinating how they’ve adapted to dry environments, developing thick rhizomes that store water.

Water is where most people go wrong with ZZs. They only need watering when the soil is completely dry, typically every 2-3 weeks. I stick my finger deep into the soil – if it’s still damp, I leave it alone!

My favorite thing about ZZ plants is their glossy, dark green leaves. They almost look fake! But did you know there are several unique ZZ plant varieties beyond the standard green?

I recently added a ‘Raven’ ZZ to my collection, with dramatic black foliage that looks stunning against my white bookshelf. The contrast makes me smile every time I walk by.

When my ZZ started putting out new growth, I was mesmerized watching the stems unfurl. They emerge in a bright lime green color before darkening to match the rest of the plant.

4) Aloe Vera

I’ve killed many plants in my gardening journey, but aloe vera has stuck with me through thick and thin. This forgiving succulent is practically indestructible, making it perfect for beginners or forgetful waterers like myself. I keep one on my kitchen windowsill for both decoration and the occasional burn treatment.

Aloe vera thrives in bright, indirect light, though it can tolerate some direct morning sun. I’ve found that my aloe gets leggy and pale when it doesn’t get enough light, almost like it’s stretching toward the sun. If you notice this happening, just scoot it closer to a window.

The quickest way to kill aloe is with too much love—specifically, too much water! I water mine only when the soil is completely dry, which might mean just once every 2-3 weeks in winter. When I first started growing succulents, I made the rookie mistake of treating aloe like my other houseplants, and the poor thing nearly rotted.

Aloe vera’s medicinal properties are a fantastic bonus to its easy-care nature. I’ve snipped off leaves to soothe everything from sunburns to kitchen accidents. There’s something deeply satisfying about harvesting medicine right from your windowsill!

This plant is also a champion air purifier. My desk aloe has been with me for years, helping keep my indoor air fresh while requiring almost no maintenance in return. It’s the perfect office buddy.

Aloe pups (baby plants) appear around the base of mature plants, making them easy to propagate. I’ve given away dozens of aloe babies to friends over the years, spreading both plant joy and practical healing.

5) Panda Plant

I’ve always had a soft spot for fuzzy plants, and the Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa) tops my list of touchable succulents. With its velvety, silver-green leaves edged in chocolate brown, it reminds me of a teddy bear I can’t help but pet whenever I walk by.

These charming plants are perfect for forgetful waterers like me. I once left mine without water for three weeks during a vacation, and it greeted me with the same fuzzy enthusiasm when I returned. They’re incredibly resilient!

Panda Plants prefer bright, indirect light, though I’ve found they’ll tolerate lower light conditions too.

Mine sits on my east-facing kitchen windowsill and seems perfectly content there. Just avoid direct afternoon sun which can scorch those fuzzy leaves.

The secret to keeping these guys happy is well-draining soil. I mix regular succulent potting soil with mycorrhizae which helps develop a strong root system. This makes a huge difference in their overall health.

Water your Panda Plant only when the soil is completely dry. I stick my finger about an inch into the soil – if it feels dry, it’s time to water. Overwatering is the quickest way to kill these fuzzy friends.

One thing I’ve learned through trial and error – these plants grow much better outdoors if your climate allows it. But they’re perfectly happy indoors year-round too, which is why they make my list of top indoor succulents.

Did you know there are actually 10 different types of Panda Plants? My favorite varieties include the dramatic “Chocolate Soldier” with its dark edges and the “Golden Girl” with yellowish fuzzy leaves.

6) Echeveria Lola

I remember the first time I spotted an Echeveria ‘Lola’ at my local nursery. Its perfect rosette of pale lavender-gray leaves took my breath away – like a delicate flower carved from stone. This beauty has become one of my favorite indoor succulents.

‘Lola’ is quite the showstopper with its perfectly shaped rosette and pearlescent appearance. The leaves have this gorgeous light purple color mixed with gray, giving them an almost ethereal quality. When the light hits just right, you’ll see subtle rosy undertones that make it truly special.

Like most echeverias, this little gem loves its sunshine. I’ve found that bright light is essential for keeping ‘Lola’ happy indoors. Without enough light, it stretches out looking for the sun, losing that perfect compact shape we all adore.

My ‘Lola’ sits in a south-facing window where it gets plenty of direct sunlight. If you don’t have a bright spot, you might need to invest in grow lights since these are such high-light plants.

When it comes to soil, I always use a well-draining mix. I create my own by mixing regular potting soil with plenty of perlite or pumice. The goal is to provide good drainage so roots don’t sit in water.

Watering ‘Lola’ follows the typical succulent rule – let it dry out completely between waterings. I stick my finger into the soil, and if it feels even slightly damp, I wait another day or two. These plants are drought-tolerant by nature.

One thing I love about ‘Lola’ is its manageable size. It typically grows to about 4 inches tall and 6 inches wide. This makes it perfect for small spaces or as part of a charming succulent arrangement.

Be gentle when handling your ‘Lola’ – that gorgeous powdery coating on the leaves is called farina. It’s the plant’s natural sunscreen, and once it’s rubbed off, it doesn’t grow back on those leaves.

7) Burro’s Tail

Oh, Burro’s Tail! I have a special soft spot for this trailing beauty. My first specimen dropped so many leaves when I brought it home that I wondered if I’d be left with bare stems. Don’t worry though—that’s just their quirky way!

This succulent (Sedum morganianum) gets its charming name from its resemblance to a donkey’s tail. The plump, fleshy leaves overlap along trailing stems, creating a gorgeous cascading effect that’s perfect for hanging baskets or high shelves.

I’ve found that Burro’s Tail thrives under grow lights, but it can stretch if the light isn’t quite strong enough. When you see it reaching toward the light source, that’s your cue to increase brightness.

Water is where many folks go wrong with this succulent. I let mine dry completely between waterings. These plants store water in those chubby little leaves, so they can handle drought much better than overwatering.

The ideal spot for your Burro’s Tail is somewhere with bright indirect light. I keep mine near an east-facing window where it gets gentle morning sun but avoids the harsh afternoon rays that might scorch its leaves.

If you live in a warm climate (USDA zones 9-11), you’re in luck! Burro’s Tail grows wonderfully outdoors in these regions. For the rest of us, it makes a fantastic houseplant.

One tip I’ve learned the hard way: handle with care! Those plump leaves detach easily. When I need to move mine, I support the stems from underneath rather than grabbing them from above.

8) Hens-and-Chicks

I’ve always had a soft spot for Hens-and-Chicks (Sempervivum). These charming little succulents remind me of tiny green roses arranged in perfect rosettes. The “hen” is the main plant, while the “chicks” are the adorable offshoots that cluster around it, connected by thin stems.

My first Hens-and-Chicks plant was a birthday gift from my sister. I was convinced I’d kill it within weeks, but five years later, it’s still thriving and has produced countless “chicks” that I’ve shared with friends.

These succulents are absolutely radiant when they bask in abundant sunlight. In my experience, a south-facing window offers the perfect spot for them to show off their full color potential. I’ve noticed mine develop beautiful red and purple tints when they get plenty of light.

Watering Hens-and-Chicks is almost too easy. They’re quite drought-tolerant, and I’ve found that the biggest mistake people make is overwatering them. I let the soil dry completely between waterings, which might mean waiting two weeks or longer during winter.

These plants require well-draining soil with larger particles. I use a basic cactus mix, sometimes mixed with a bit of perlite for extra drainage. Nothing fancy, but they seem to appreciate it!

What makes Hens-and-Chicks truly special is how they keep on giving. When your plant produces “chicks,” you can easily separate them and grow new plants. I’ve created little succulent gardens all over my apartment this way!

Some varieties are more prolific than others. I’ve found that Sempervivum and Sempervivum heuffelii tend to produce the most offspring. It’s like getting free plants as a reward for basic care!

9) Christmas Cactus

I’m not ashamed to admit it—I’ve killed my share of desert cacti, but Christmas cacti? These beauties and I have a special bond. Despite their name, they’re not true cacti but rather epiphytic succulents that grow naturally in tree crevices.

My first Christmas cactus was a hand-me-down from my grandmother—looking rather sad and droopy when I got it. After some trial and error, I discovered these plants don’t want the desert-like conditions of their spiny cousins.

Unlike most succulents, Christmas cacti prefer bright but indirect sunlight. I keep mine near an east-facing window where it gets morning light without the harsh afternoon rays that can scorch its segmented leaves.

The real secret to getting those gorgeous holiday blooms? It’s all about the feeding schedule. I’ve learned to provide regular, nutritious meals from the end of one blooming period until fall. This helps them store energy for their spectacular flower show.

Water is another area where these plants break the succulent rules. While I let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings, I never let my Christmas cactus get bone dry like I would with other succulents. They appreciate a bit more moisture and higher humidity.

Some of my Christmas cacti have been with me for years—they’re incredibly long-lived when happy. I’ve seen posts from folks whose plants have been thriving since 2013 or longer!

What I love most about these plants is how they keep my indoor succulent collection interesting during the colder months. Just when other plants are dormant, my Christmas cactus puts on a show with its pink, white, or red blooms cascading from the leaf tips.

10) Othonna capensis

I stumbled upon Othonna capensis, commonly known as Ruby Necklace, at a local plant swap. I fell instantly in love with its trailing stems. This charming succulent has these adorable bean-like leaves that dangle down like little jewels, making it perfect for hanging baskets in my sunny kitchen window.

What really makes this plant special is how it changes color! When I first brought mine home, the stems were mostly green. But after placing it in my brightest window, the stems turned a gorgeous ruby-red color that truly lives up to its name.

One thing I’ve learned about my Ruby Necklace is that it’s incredibly fast-growing and easy to care for. It doesn’t mind if I forget to water it for a while. In fact, it seems to prefer drying out between waterings. Overwatering is the quickest way to lose this beauty, as I unfortunately discovered with my first specimen.

The little daisy-like yellow flowers that appear throughout the year are an unexpected bonus! They’re tiny but cheerful, adding another dimension to this already spectacular plant.

I’ve found that my Othonna gets the reddest when it’s slightly rootbound and running low on nutrients. It’s almost like a beautiful stress response. Just be sure to give it plenty of light; in lower light conditions, it tends to stay more green than ruby.

For containers, I always make sure to use pots with good drainage holes and a well-draining cactus mix. This plant really doesn’t like wet feet!

Propagating this beauty is a breeze. I’ve started several new plants just by snipping a piece and sticking it in soil. Within weeks, new growth appears, and I have another Ruby Necklace to share with friends.

11) Haworthia Fasciata

I’ve always had a soft spot for Haworthia Fasciata, commonly known as the “Zebra Plant.” This little succulent stole my heart the moment I spotted those distinctive white horizontal stripes against its deep green leaves. It reminded me of a tiny aloe plant wearing pinstripes!

This is one of my go-to recommendations for plant newbies. Why? Because this little gem is practically indestructible! I once forgot about mine for nearly a month during a hectic work period, and it greeted me with the same perky attitude when I finally remembered it existed.

Haworthia Fasciata is perfect for beginners because it grows well indoors with minimal fuss. It stays compact too, rarely growing larger than 6 inches, making it ideal for small spaces and desktops.

The watering schedule couldn’t be simpler. I give mine a drink every 2-3 weeks when it’s in bright light, letting the soil dry completely between waterings. If you keep yours in lower light, you’ll want to water even less frequently.

Light-wise, these little zebras prefer bright, indirect light. I keep mine on my east-facing windowsill where it gets gentle morning sun. Too much direct sunlight can turn the leaves brownish—I learned that lesson the hard way!

One thing I love about this low-maintenance succulent is how it thrives on neglect. In fact, I’ve found it does better when I’m not hovering and fussing over it. It’s the perfect plant for busy people or frequent travelers.

In winter, I cut back watering to once a month. My Haworthia seems to appreciate the drier conditions during its dormant period. Just remember, these plants hate sitting in water—good drainage is essential to prevent root rot.

12) Ponytail Palm

I still remember the day I brought home my first Ponytail Palm. I thought I was getting a regular palm tree, but boy, was I in for a surprise! This quirky plant isn’t a palm at all – it’s actually a type of succulent in the Agave family.

The Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) is one of nature’s most delightful optical illusions. With its bulbous, swollen trunk and those wild, flowing leaves, it reminds me of a whimsical character from a children’s book. I like to think of that chunky base as the plant’s personal water bottle.

That pudgy trunk isn’t just for show – it’s actually a brilliant adaptation. It stores water like a natural reservoir, which is why these plants can survive even when I forget to water them for weeks (which happens more often than I’d like to admit).

The long, slender leaves cascade outward like a messy ponytail, hence the charming name. My own Ponytail Palm sits in my office corner, requiring almost no attention yet bringing me joy daily with its cheerful, slightly disheveled appearance.

If you’re forgetful about watering (join the club!), this plant is your new best friend. It thrives in dry conditions and actually prefers to dry out completely between waterings. I water mine maybe once every three weeks, and it’s been happily growing for years.

I keep mine in a bright spot with some direct sunlight, but it’s pretty flexible about lighting. The only thing I’ve found it truly hates is sitting in soggy soil – a sure way to make this otherwise resilient plant unhappy.

13) Gollum Jade

I’ll never forget the first time I spotted a Gollum Jade at my local nursery. Those tubular, finger-like leaves with their reddish tips made me do a double-take! It looked like something from another planet, and I just had to bring it home.

This quirky succulent (officially named Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’) is actually a mutation of the regular jade plant. The leaves curl inward to form those distinctive hollow tubes that some folks say look like tiny green trumpets or even Shrek’s ears!

Gollum Jade is incredibly forgiving for indoor growing. I’ve found it thrives with bright sunlight and doesn’t throw a fit if I forget to water it occasionally. Mine sits in my south-facing window and seems perfectly content there.

When it comes to watering, I’ve learned not to be too stingy. If your soil drains well, you can water more frequently than other succulents, especially during active growth periods. Just make sure the soil dries out between waterings.

These plants are native to South Africa, so they appreciate warmth and aren’t fans of cold drafts. I keep mine away from chilly windows in winter, and it rewards me with steady growth.

The normal indoor humidity level (around 40-60%) suits Gollum Jade perfectly. I’ve never needed to mist mine or provide extra humidity, which makes it perfect for my busy lifestyle.

What I love most about my Gollum Jade is its striking green color that brightens up any room. When happy, it might even reward you with tiny star-shaped white or pink flowers!

Environment and Light Requirements

Finding the right environment for your indoor succulents isn’t rocket science, but it does require a bit of attention. I’ve killed plenty of succulents by putting them in dark corners before I learned what they really need to thrive.

Finding the Right Spot

Most succulents need at least 6 hours of bright light daily to stay happy. I’ve found that south-facing windows are usually ideal for these sun-lovers.

East-facing windows work well too, giving succulents that morning sunshine they crave. If you don’t have great natural light, don’t worry! I’ve successfully grown succulents under grow lights when my apartment didn’t have enough windows.

Some varieties like Snake Plants actually do quite well in lower light conditions, making them perfect for those darker corners of your home. I’ve kept one thriving in my bathroom for years with just minimal natural light!

Remember that most succulents prefer bright, indirect light rather than harsh direct sun that can scorch their leaves. I learned this the hard way after burning my Echeveria on a scorching summer windowsill.

Adjusting for Seasonal Changes

I’ve noticed my succulents need different care as the seasons change. During winter, I move all my plants closer to windows. This is because the sun is weaker and days are shorter.

In summer, I often need to pull some varieties back from windows or add a sheer curtain to filter intense afternoon sun. My String of Pearls gets sunburned easily if I’m not careful during July and August.

Watch for signs that your succulent needs more light. These signs include stretching tall (etiolation), losing its compact shape, or fading in color. These are all cries for help I’ve learned to recognize!

Temperature matters too. Most succulents enjoy temperatures between 60-80°F. I keep mine away from drafty windows in winter and air conditioning vents in summer. My Crinkle-leaf Plant thrives when I maintain consistent temperatures.

Humidity is usually not a concern since succulents prefer dry air, but I avoid placing them near humidifiers or in steamy bathrooms (except for that resilient Snake Plant!).

Watering Tips and Tricks

Watering succulents properly is probably the trickiest part of keeping them happy indoors. I’ve killed more succulents from overwatering than I care to admit, but I’ve learned some valuable lessons along the way.

Understanding Overwatering

The number one killer of indoor succulents is definitely overwatering. I learned this the hard way when my first echeveria turned to mush after I treated it like my other houseplants. Succulents store water in their leaves and don’t need frequent drinks like ferns or peace lilies.

Signs your succulent is drowning include:

• Leaves turning yellow or transparent
• Soft, mushy texture
• Black spots appearing on stems or leaves
• A rotting smell from the soil

When in doubt, it’s always better to underwater than overwater. My jade plant once went a full month without water when I was traveling, and it looked better than ever when I returned! If you notice any signs of rot, you’ll need to act fast:

1. Remove the plant from its pot
2. Cut away any black or mushy parts with a clean knife
3. Let the plant dry out for 2-3 days
4. Repot in fresh, dry soil

Creating a Watering Schedule

I don’t actually follow a strict calendar for watering my succulents. Instead, I check them individually and water only when the top half-inch of soil is completely dry.

For most of my indoor collection, this means watering every 2-3 weeks in summer and monthly in winter.

My watering method makes a huge difference too. I used to sprinkle water on top, but now I use the “soak and dry” approach:

1. Take the pot to the sink
2. Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom
3. Let it drain completely (no standing water!)
4. Return to its sunny spot only when the pot isn’t dripping

Season matters too! During winter, most succulents enter a dormant period where they barely grow. I cut back watering by about half during these months. My apartment gets super dry with the heating on, but I resist the urge to water more frequently.

The pot type affects watering needs too. My terracotta pots dry out faster than plastic or ceramic ones, so those plants might need water slightly more often. I always use pots with drainage holes – it’s non-negotiable for succulent success!

Common Challenges and Pests

Even the hardiest succulents can face troubles indoors. I’ve battled my fair share of pesky invaders and frustrating growth issues with my own collection, and I’ve learned that early detection is your best defense.

Identifying Common Pests

The most frequent uninvited guests on my succulents are mealybugs and scale insects. Mealybugs look like tiny cotton balls nestled in leaf joints or under leaves. They’re sneaky little things! I once had an entire Echeveria collection affected before I even noticed them.

Scale insects are another story – they appear as grayish-white or brown bumps peppered across your plant’s skin. They attach themselves firmly and feed on the plant’s tissues.

Aphids might also show up, especially in spring. I’ve noticed they particularly love my Echeveria plants.

Watch for these warning signs:

• White cottony masses in leaf joints (mealybugs)
• Brown or gray bumps on leaves (scale)
• Sticky residue on leaves or surrounding surfaces
• Yellowing or distorted growth
• Sudden plant decline with no obvious cause

Solutions for Pest Control

I’ve tried many remedies over the years, and I’ve found that simple solutions often work best. For small infestations, I grab a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol and dab directly on the pests. It’s oddly satisfying to watch them dissolve away!

For larger problems, Ultrafine Oil Spray has become my second favorite weapon. It smothers the insects without harsh chemicals, which I appreciate since my cats like to nibble occasionally.

My prevention routine includes:

1. Isolating new plants for 1-2 weeks before introducing them to my collection

2. Inspecting plants weekly, paying special attention to leaf joints and undersides

3. Ensuring good air circulation around plants

4. Avoiding overwatering (wet conditions invite more pests)

When I notice multiple affected plants, I separate the healthy ones immediately. This simple step has saved many of my precious succulents from becoming an all-you-can-eat buffet for pests!