15 Easiest Succulents to Grow Indoors: Perfect Plants for Beginners with Brown Thumbs

Ah, succulents! My little green friends have been keeping me company indoors for years now, brightening up my windowsills and adding life to my desk space. There’s something so satisfying about these water-wise plants with their chubby leaves and architectural forms.

Growing succulents indoors is one of the easiest ways to enjoy houseplants. Especially if you’ve struggled with keeping other plants alive in the past.

I remember my first jade plant – a tiny cutting from a friend that’s now a beautiful mini tree on my kitchen counter. The beauty of indoor succulents is their forgiving nature. They don’t mind if I forget to water them for weeks (sometimes they even prefer it!), they thrive in the dry air of my apartment, and they don’t throw dramatic leaf-dropping tantrums when conditions aren’t perfect. If you’ve been wanting to add some greenery to your home without the stress, these 15 easy-to-grow indoor succulents might just be your perfect plant companions.

1) Aloe Vera

I’ve killed plenty of houseplants in my day, but aloe vera? This succulent has survived my most forgetful moments. It’s the plant equivalent of that friend who’s always reliable, no matter what.

Aloe vera is incredibly forgiving in nature, which makes it perfect for beginners or busy folks like me. When I first got mine, I was terrified of killing it. Turns out, it’s pretty hard to do!

What makes aloe so easy to care for? It absolutely hates sitting in wet soil. I water mine only when the soil is completely dry—maybe once every two or three weeks. Overwatering is the quickest way to make an aloe unhappy.

Aloe prefers bright indirect light, so I keep mine on my east-facing windowsill where it gets morning sun but avoids the harsh afternoon rays. Too little light and it gets leggy; too much direct sun and it turns reddish-brown.

The practical benefits of aloe vera make it even more appealing. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve snipped off a leaf to soothe a kitchen burn or sunburn. It’s like having a living first-aid kit!

Propagating aloe is a breeze, too. My original plant has produced so many pups (baby plants) that I’ve given them as gifts to friends who claimed they couldn’t keep plants alive. So far, no casualties!

I love how aloe vera reminds me that sometimes the best approach to plant care (and life) is to just leave well enough alone. If you’re looking for a tough-to-kill houseplant, this is definitely where I’d recommend starting.

2) Snake Plant

Snake Plants are the champions of survival in the indoor plant world! I’ve had one for over a decade that’s thrived despite my occasional neglect. These upright beauties with their sword-like leaves add a modern, architectural element to any room.

What makes Snake Plants so beginner-friendly? They can survive weeks without light and water without losing their good looks. I once forgot to water mine during a three-week vacation, and it looked perfectly fine when I returned!

Their versatility is amazing. Snake Plants can grow in a wide range of light levels, from bright indirect light to those darker corners where most plants would sulk. Just keep them away from hot, direct sun which can scorch their leaves.

If you’re like me and sometimes forget to water your plants, the Snake Plant might become your new best friend. They’re the best choice for forgetful plant parents. I water mine only when the soil is completely dry—about once every 2-3 weeks.

Another bonus? Snake Plants are excellent air purifiers. I keep one in my bedroom to help filter the air while I sleep. Their oxygen-releasing properties at night make them a perfect bedroom companion.

I’ve found they rarely have pest problems, and they’re easy to propagate by dividing the plant when it gets crowded. I’ve started countless new plants from my original one, gifting them to friends who also struggle with plant care.

3) Jade Plant

Jade plants have been my faithful companions for years. These classic favorite succulents have earned their popularity for a really good reason: they’re incredibly easy to grow! With their thick, woody stems and oval-shaped leaves, they remind me of miniature trees.

I love how jade plants, scientifically known as Crassula ovata, develop a trunk-like appearance as they mature. My oldest jade is now five years old and has developed this wonderful bonsai-like quality that makes it a standout on my windowsill.

Sometimes called Money Plants or Lucky Plants, these South African natives are perfect for beginners. I’ve found they thrive with minimal attention, which is perfect for my sometimes forgetful watering schedule!

The watering needs of jade plants couldn’t be simpler. I wait until the soil is completely dry before giving them a good drink. Overwatering is the quickest way to kill these otherwise sturdy plants, so when in doubt, I always wait another day.

Light is important for jades, but they’re quite adaptable. Mine sit near a south-facing window where they get bright, indirect light most of the day. Without enough light, they tend to get leggy as they stretch toward the sun.

One of my favorite things about jade plants is how easy they are to propagate. I’ve started dozens of new plants just by placing a fallen leaf on soil! Within weeks, tiny roots emerge, and before long, a brand new plant is growing.

There are many types of jade plants to collect, from the traditional variety to quirky ones like “Gollum Jade” with tubular leaves. I started with one and now have five different varieties!

4) Zebra Plant

Oh, the Zebra Plant! This little beauty might just be my favorite indoor succulent. I’ve had one sitting on my desk for three years now, and it’s thrived despite my occasional neglect. The Zebra Plant is the best succulent for beginners because it’s incredibly forgiving.

What makes this plant so special? Those distinctive white stripes on dark green leaves create a zebra-like pattern that adds personality to any space. I find myself staring at mine when I should be working! The formal name is Haworthia fasciata, but I prefer calling it the Zebra Plant—much more fun, don’t you think?

One thing I love about Zebra Plants is that they’re breathtakingly easy to care for. They don’t demand much of your time or attention, which makes them perfect for busy folks or forgetful gardeners like myself.

Light requirements are simple—just place them in bright, indirect light. I’ve found that my Zebra Plant does best on a shelf near my east-facing window. Too much direct sunlight can burn those beautiful leaves, so I keep mine just out of those harsh afternoon rays.

When it comes to watering, less is definitely more! I wait until the soil is completely dry before giving mine a drink. During winter, I sometimes go a month between waterings, and my plant doesn’t complain one bit. Overwatering is the quickest way to kill these sturdy little guys.

Zebra Plants stay relatively small, making them perfect for apartments or small spaces. Mine has produced several offsets (or “pups”) over the years that I’ve shared with friends. There’s something so satisfying about introducing others to the joy of easy succulent growing!

5) Hens-and-Chicks

I’ve always found Hens-and-Chicks to be some of the most fascinating succulents in my collection. These low-growing beauties form rosettes that look like little green flowers, reaching only about 4 to 5 inches tall. The “hen” is the main rosette, while the “chicks” are the smaller rosettes that grow around it.

I learned the hard way that these alpine natives prefer cooler conditions than most succulents. When I first brought them indoors, I put them in my warmest, sunniest window—and they weren’t happy! They actually struggle indoors if conditions aren’t right.

The secret to keeping Hens-and-Chicks happy inside is giving them plenty of light—a south-facing window is perfect. I’ve found that they don’t mind cooler indoor temperatures during winter, which is when many of my other plants complain.

What I love most about these little guys is how easy they are to propagate. Just gently pull a chick from the mother plant, and it’ll usually come with a tiny root attached. Pop it in some well-draining soil, and you’ve got a new plant!

They’re technically called Sempervivum, which means “always living” in Latin—and it’s so true! I’ve had some survive the most neglectful periods of my plant-parenting journey. These hardy growers can tolerate temperatures as low as -20°F outdoors, making them super resilient as houseplants.

Water them sparingly—I touch the soil and only water when it’s completely dry. Too much moisture is their enemy and can cause rot faster than you can say “succulent.”

6) Panda Plant

I’ve always been charmed by the Panda Plant, or Kalanchoe tomentosa as it’s scientifically known. This adorable succulent has fuzzy, oval-shaped leaves that feel like velvet when you touch them. The leaves have a distinctive grayish-green color with chocolate-brown or rust-colored edges that make them truly stand out in any collection.

What makes the Panda Plant one of my favorite indoor succulents is how ridiculously easy it is to care for. I once forgot about mine for nearly a month during a hectic work period, and it looked exactly the same when I finally remembered it existed! These fairly easy to care for plants don’t require much attention to thrive.

The Panda Plant prefers bright, indirect light but can tolerate some direct morning sun. I keep mine on a north-facing windowsill where it gets plenty of light without the harsh afternoon rays that could burn its fuzzy leaves.

When it comes to watering, less is definitely more! I wait until the soil is completely dry before giving my Panda Plant a drink. In winter, I might go 3-4 weeks between waterings, and it seems perfectly content with this arrangement.

As for soil, I use a cactus mix with extra perlite to ensure good drainage. The thick, velvety coating that covers the entire plant helps it retain moisture, making it particularly drought-tolerant.

7) Ponytail Palm

I’ll never forget my first encounter with a Ponytail Palm. With its bulbous trunk and fountain of slender leaves, it looked like something from a Dr. Seuss book! Despite its name, this charming plant isn’t actually a palm at all – it’s a succulent belonging to the Agave family.

My Ponytail Palm sits near my desk, requiring almost zero attention. These plants are incredibly forgiving, which makes them perfect for beginners or forgetful gardeners like me. They store water in their swollen base (which resembles an elephant’s foot), allowing them to go weeks without a drink.

When it comes to light, Ponytail Palms aren’t too picky. They prefer bright, indirect light, but I’ve found they’ll tolerate lower light conditions too. Just avoid placing them against hot windows – they like brightness without the scorching heat.

One thing that continues to amaze me about these plants is their slow growth rate. My little desktop specimen has barely changed size in two years! They grow incredibly slowly indoors, sometimes just a few inches per year. This makes them perfect long-term companions.

I water mine only when the soil feels completely dry – about once every three weeks. Overwatering is the quickest way to kill these drought-resistant beauties, so when in doubt, I always wait another day.

The oldest Ponytail Palms can reach impressive heights. I once visited a garden center with a 15-foot specimen that was likely decades old! Don’t worry though – your indoor plant will stay manageable for many years.

8) Burro’s Tail

I’ve had a love affair with Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum) since I first spotted one dangling from a hanging pot at my local garden center. Those plump, teardrop-shaped leaves cascading down like a waterfall of green-blue beads completely stole my heart!

This Mexican native is often called “Donkey’s Tail” because of its distinctive trailing stems covered in fleshy, overlapping leaves. I keep mine in a hanging basket where those charming tails can dangle freely without getting squished against other plants.

One thing I’ve learned about Burro’s Tail is that it’s one of the easiest succulents to grow. It’s incredibly forgiving if I forget to water it for a while, which happens more often than I’d like to admit!

My Burro’s Tail thrives in bright, indirect light. I tried keeping one in my north-facing bathroom once, and it got sad and leggy. Now I keep it near my east-facing kitchen window, and it’s much happier there.

When it comes to watering, I’ve found the “soak and dry” method works best. I give it a good drink when the soil is completely dry, which is usually every 2-3 weeks in summer and even less in winter.

One warning I must share – those plump little leaves fall off at the slightest touch! The first time I moved my plant, I left a trail of leaves across my living room. Don’t panic if this happens to you – those fallen leaves can be propagated into new plants.

For soil, I use a standard cactus mix with extra perlite mixed in. My Burro’s Tail seems to appreciate the excellent drainage this provides, and I’ve never had issues with root rot.

9) Christmas Cactus

The Christmas Cactus was my gateway into the wonderful world of holiday-blooming houseplants. Despite its name, this isn’t a desert dweller like most cacti! It’s actually a tropical plant from the Brazilian rainforests that grows on trees.

I love how forgiving Christmas Cacti are for beginners. Unlike their spiny desert cousins, these plants have flat, fleshy, segmented stems that cascade beautifully from hanging baskets. No painful prickles to worry about here!

The spectacular blooms are what really make this plant special. Mine produces the most gorgeous pink flowers around November-January, though I’ve heard from friends that theirs sometimes bloom at Thanksgiving or Easter instead (there are different varieties).

I’ve found Christmas Cacti thrive in bright, indirect light. When I placed mine in a south-facing window with a sheer curtain, it practically exploded with new growth! They definitely don’t want the harsh direct sun that other cacti crave.

Watering is where I’ve seen most people go wrong. Unlike desert cacti, the Christmas Cactus doesn’t live in hot, dry environments. I water mine when the top inch of soil feels dry, but never let it completely dry out.

If you want yours to bloom on schedule, try giving it cooler temperatures (around 60-65°F) and 12-14 hours of darkness each night for about six weeks before you want flowers. I pop mine in a spare bedroom in October and it works like a charm!

I’ve propagated dozens of Christmas Cacti for friends by simply breaking off a segment with 2-3 joints and sticking it in moist soil. They root so easily that even my most plant-challenged friends have success with them!

10) ZZ Plant

I’ve killed a lot of plants in my day, but the ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) has survived even my worst gardening blunders. This glossy beauty is practically indestructible! I once forgot to water mine for nearly two months during a hectic work period, and it just sat there looking perfect as if to say, “No big deal.”

The ZZ plant is perfect for beginners or busy folks like me. Its thick, potato-like rhizomes store water, making it super drought-tolerant. I’ve found it thrives in low to bright indirect light, though it grows slower in dimmer conditions.

One thing I love about ZZ plants is their shiny, dark green leaves. They look almost artificial—so perfect and waxy! This makes them excellent indoor plants for those spots where you want something that always looks tidy.

Be warned though—ZZ plants are toxic if eaten, so I keep mine away from my curious cat and visiting nieces and nephews. Safety first in the plant kingdom!

For care, I water mine only when the soil is completely dry. Maybe once a month in winter and every 2-3 weeks in summer. Overwatering is the easiest way to kill these otherwise bulletproof plants, as I learned with my very first ZZ (RIP).

They rarely need repotting—another bonus for lazy gardeners like me! I’ve had my current ZZ in the same pot for three years, and it’s still putting out new growth. If you want more ZZ plants, you can divide the rhizomes when repotting or try leaf cuttings.

Just remember, ZZ plants are marathon runners, not sprinters. They grow slowly, but that patience rewards you with a virtually no-fuss houseplant that looks great year-round!

11) Gasteria

I have a special fondness for Gasteria succulents, which I’ve nicknamed “stomach plants” because their plump, tongue-shaped leaves remind me of little stomachs. These charming plants are absolute champions for indoor growing, especially if you’re just starting your plant journey.

Gasterias are incredibly forgiving plants that don’t demand much attention. I’ve forgotten to water mine for weeks, and they just soldier on without complaint! They prefer bright natural light but away from strong direct sunshine, making them perfect for that spot near your window but not directly on the sill.

What I love most about these plants is their distinctive appearance. Unlike their cousins Aloe and Agave, Gasterias have thick, fleshy leaves with round edges rather than sharp points. This makes them much more indoor-friendly, especially if you have curious pets or children.

My first Gasteria came to me as a tiny offset from a friend’s plant, and five years later, it’s produced multiple babies of its own. They grow slowly, which is actually a bonus for indoor plants – you won’t need to repot them very often.

Watering is simple – I let the soil dry out completely between waterings, which might mean once every 2-3 weeks indoors. They’re much more tolerant of underwatering than overwatering, a quality I deeply appreciate when life gets busy.

There are many varieties of Gasteria to explore, some with spotted leaves, others with stripes or different colors. I’ve started a small collection, and each one has its own character.

If you’re dealing with low light conditions, Gasterias are one of your best options. While not quite as tolerant as snake plants, they’ll manage better than most succulents in less-than-ideal lighting.

12) Kalanchoe

I’ve had a special place in my heart for Kalanchoe ever since I received one as a housewarming gift years ago. This cheerful succulent is a perfect choice for beginners because it’s pretty forgiving of occasional neglect.

Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, the most common indoor variety, brings a splash of color with its clusters of tiny bright flowers in orange, red, pink, or yellow. I love how they can bloom for weeks (sometimes months!) when they’re happy, adding a pop of color to my windowsill during dreary winter days.

These succulents prefer bright, indirect sunlight for at least 8 hours daily. I’ve found that an east-facing window works beautifully for mine. Too little light and they get leggy; too much direct sun and the leaves can scorch.

Watering is where many folks go wrong with Kalanchoe. I wait until the soil is completely dry before giving it a good drink. Overwatering is their nemesis! I learned this the hard way when I nearly killed my first one with too much love.

For soil, I use a standard cactus mix with extra perlite mixed in. Good drainage is essential for happy Kalanchoe plants. I’ve killed too many plants with soggy roots to make that mistake again!

Beyond the common flowering Kalanchoe, I’m rather fond of the fuzzy Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa) with its thick, velvety leaves. Its distinctive appearance reminds me of a cuddly stuffed animal, just one that requires far less water!

To keep your Kalanchoe blooming, give it a period of cooler temperatures (around 50-60°F) and about 14 hours of darkness each day for several weeks. I’ve found this trick works wonders for triggering a fresh flush of flowers.

13) Sempervivum

I’ve always found Sempervivum (commonly called Hens and Chicks) to be fascinating little plants with their tight rosette formations. They’re super cool looking and come in various colors from green to purple to red.

Here’s the tricky part though – despite being on many “easy succulent” lists, Sempervivums actually don’t do well indoors for long periods. I learned this the hard way after killing several before doing my homework!

These succulents are frost-hardy and thrive outdoors where they can get plenty of sunlight. When kept inside, they tend to stretch out and lose their compact shape as they desperately search for more light.

If you’re determined to grow them indoors like I was, place them in your absolute brightest window. I put mine in my south-facing kitchen window where they get the most intense light in my house.

Water Sempervivums sparingly indoors – they’re actually quite tolerant of drought conditions. I’ve found that waiting until the soil is completely dry and then giving them a good soak works best.

The good news is that they propagate easily! The mother plant (the “hen”) produces little offsets (the “chicks”) that can be separated and planted on their own. It’s so satisfying to watch your plant family grow!

My honest advice? If you have any outdoor space like a patio or balcony, keep your Sempervivums out there instead. They’ll be much happier, and you’ll get to enjoy their true beauty with those tight, colorful rosettes they’re famous for.

14) Haworthia

I’ve always thought of Haworthia as the quiet, reliable friend in my indoor succulent collection. These cute little plants have been with me through multiple apartment moves and varying light conditions, never complaining once!

Haworthias are perfect for beginners because they’re incredibly forgiving. They’re native to South Africa and have adapted to survive in less-than-ideal conditions. What I love most about them is their diminutive stature, usually staying under 6 inches in height and diameter even when fully grown.

The most common variety you’ll find is the Zebra Haworthia (Haworthia fasciata), with its striking white stripes on dark green leaves. It looks a bit like a tiny aloe plant wearing zebra-print pajamas!

I’ve found that Haworthias are much more tolerant of lower light conditions than most succulents. While they still prefer bright indirect light, they won’t immediately stretch or die if placed a few feet from a window. My Haworthia thrived on my north-facing bookshelf for years!

Water-wise, these little guys are super chill. I water mine about once every 2-3 weeks, letting the soil dry completely between waterings. During winter, I cut back even more.

One thing I appreciate about Haworthias is their high adaptability to different indoor environments. I’ve kept them in both my dry apartment and my more humid bathroom without issues.

They also make great companions for other succulents in arrangements because they stay small and don’t overshadow their neighbors. I’ve paired mine with small Echeverias and they look absolutely charming together!

15) Crinkle-Leaf Plant

I’ve always had a soft spot for plants with unique textures. The Crinkle-Leaf Plant (Adromischus cristatus) is a delightful oddball in my collection. Those triangular leaves with their distinctly wrinkled or “crinkled” edges make it look like nature got creative with some fabric crimping!

What I love most about this little gem is how forgiving it is. When I first started my succulent journey, this was one of the plants that didn’t punish my occasional forgetfulness. It’s truly one of those succulents you simply can’t kill, perfect if you’re just getting started with indoor plants.

The Crinkle-Leaf thrives in bright light but adapts well to indoor conditions. I keep mine on my east-facing windowsill where it gets morning sun, and it seems perfectly content there. Too much direct sun can sometimes burn the leaves, so finding that sweet spot is key.

Watering is wonderfully straightforward with this plant. I let the soil dry completely between waterings, which usually means I only water it once every two or three weeks. In winter, I cut back even more.

What makes this plant extra special is how easy it is to propagate. I’ve expanded my collection by simply twisting off a few leaves and laying them on soil. Within weeks, tiny plants start forming!

The Crinkle-Leaf stays relatively small, making it perfect for tight spaces. Mine has been happily growing in a tiny 3-inch pot for years, requiring minimal repotting or fuss.

If you’re looking for a conversation starter that won’t demand much attention, this unique and easy-to-grow succulent deserves a spot in your indoor garden. Its quirky appearance brings character to any plant collection!

Creating the Perfect Indoor Environment for Succulents

Keeping succulents happy indoors isn’t rocket science, but it does require a few key elements. I’ve learned through many years of trial and error that light, temperature, and soil make all the difference between thriving plants and sad, stretchy ones.

Understanding Light Requirements

Most of my indoor succulents struggled until I really understood their light needs. Succulents are sun-lovers at heart! They need at least 6 hours of bright, indirect light daily to maintain their compact shape and vibrant colors.

For the best results, I place my succulents near a south-facing window where they get plenty of sunshine throughout the day. East or west windows can work too, but north-facing windows rarely provide enough light.

If your home doesn’t have ideal natural lighting, don’t worry! I’ve had great success using grow lights. LED grow lights placed 6-12 inches above your plants for 12-14 hours daily can work wonders. I’ve seen dramatic improvement in my Echeverias once I added supplemental lighting during our gloomy winter months.

Signs your succulent needs more light include:

• Stretching or “etiolation” (long stems with widely spaced leaves)
• Fading colors
• Leaning toward light sources
• Slow or stunted growth

Managing Temperature and Humidity

Succulents are desert dwellers at heart, which means they prefer things on the warmer, drier side. I keep my indoor succulents in rooms that stay between 60-80°F (15-27°C). Most varieties can tolerate brief periods outside this range, but prolonged exposure to cold can damage them.

Humidity is another factor that often gets overlooked. Unlike tropical houseplants, most succulents prefer dry air. My home typically stays around 30-40% humidity, which works perfectly for them. If you live in a particularly humid climate, good air circulation becomes even more important.

I’ve found that using fans or placing plants near (but not directly in front of) air vents helps prevent moisture-related issues like rot or fungal problems. During winter, I keep my succulents away from cold drafts and heating vents which can dry them out too quickly.

Choosing the Right Soil Mix

Regular potting soil is a death sentence for most succulents! I learned this the hard way after drowning several plants in my early days. Succulents need fast-draining soil that mimics their natural habitat.

I make my own mix using:

• 2 parts regular potting soil
• 1 part perlite or pumice
• 1 part coarse sand

This combination provides the perfect balance of nutrients while allowing excess water to drain quickly. You can also buy pre-made cactus soil and add extra perlite for improved drainage.

The container matters too! I always use pots with drainage holes – this is non-negotiable for healthy succulents. Terra cotta pots are my favorite since they’re porous and help wick away excess moisture. If I use decorative containers without drainage, I’ll place a nursery pot inside as a liner.

Remember to refresh your soil mix every 1-2 years, as the organic components break down over time and can become compacted.

Troubleshooting Common Succulent Problems

Even the most carefree succulents can face challenges indoors. I’ve had my fair share of plant troubles over the years, but most succulent problems have simple solutions if you catch them early enough.

Overwatering vs. Underwatering

The trickiest part of succulent care is getting the watering just right. I’ve killed more plants from drowning them with kindness than anything else!

Overwatering signs:

• Soft, mushy leaves that may turn yellow or translucent
• Black spots on stems or leaves
• A rotting smell from the soil
• Leaves falling off with the slightest touch

When I spot these symptoms, I immediately stop watering and check the roots. If they’re black and mushy, I cut away the damaged parts with clean scissors and repot in fresh, dry soil.

Underwatering signs:

• Wrinkled, shriveled leaves
• Dry, crispy leaf tips
• Plant looks deflated
• Slow or stopped growth

My fix for thirsty succulents is simple – a good thorough soak! I place the pot in a bowl of water for about 15 minutes, letting the soil absorb moisture from the bottom up.

Identifying and Treating Pests

Even my indoor succulents sometimes fall victim to tiny invaders. The most common pests I encounter are:

Mealybugs: These look like tiny bits of cotton stuck in leaf joints. When I spot them, I dab each bug with a cotton swab soaked in 70% isopropyl alcohol.

Spider mites: These tiny red or brown specks create fine webbing between leaves. I treat them with insecticidal soap spray, making sure to get the undersides of leaves too.

Scale insects: These appear as small brown bumps on stems and leaves. I gently scrape them off with my fingernail or an old toothbrush before applying neem oil.

For any infestation, I immediately quarantine the affected plant to protect my other babies!

Dealing with Etiolation

I used to wonder why my indoor succulents would stretch out and get leggy. It turns out they were desperately reaching for light! This stretching is called etiolation.

When succulents don’t get enough light, they develop unusually long stems. They also spread out their leaves trying to capture more light. Additionally, they grow paler than normal and lean toward light sources.

Unfortunately, once a succulent has stretched toward the light, it won’t return to its compact shape. The best solution is to behead the stretched plant about an inch below the top rosette. Then, let the cutting callus for a few days before replanting it.

To prevent future stretching, I move my succulents to brighter spots or add a grow light during winter. I also rotate my pots a quarter turn weekly so all sides get equal light. Most of my succulents need at least 6 hours of bright indirect light daily to maintain their compact shape.