15 Secrets to Growing Succulents That Experts Don’t Tell You: Hidden Wisdom for Keeping Your Desert Beauties Thriving

Succulents have been my garden companions for over a decade, and I’ve learned that these water-storing wonders hide more secrets than most experts share. I’ve killed my fair share—overwatering some and baking others to crispy ends—before discovering tricks that transformed my sad collection into a thriving jungle.

Understanding what succulents actually need (rather than what plant labels suggest) makes all the difference between struggling plants and those stunning, plump beauties you see on social media.

The journey to succulent success isn’t complicated, but it does require knowing where succulents come from and what makes them happy in their natural habitats. When I stopped treating my desert plants like regular houseplants, everything changed. These resilient little gems actually prefer some neglect and tough love, contrary to what you might think. I’m excited to share the unexpected tips I’ve gathered through years of trial and error—things that even the experts at the garden center rarely mention.

1) “Succulents thrive when you mimic their native habitat.” – A well-traveled plant enthusiast

I discovered this secret during my plant adventures across Arizona and Mexico. Most succulents grow naturally in dry, rocky places with little rain but plenty of sunshine. They’ve adapted to survive in these tough spots.

When I first tried growing succulents, I treated them like my other houseplants. I watered them regularly and put them in rich soil. Big mistake! My poor little jade plant turned yellow and mushy within weeks.

The game-changer was creating mini desert conditions right in my pots. I now mix regular potting soil with coarse sand and small pebbles. This quick-draining mix keeps their roots happy and prevents rot.

Light matters too. I place my succulents in the brightest spots in my home. My kitchen windowsill faces south and my aloe vera has doubled in size there. If your windows don’t get enough light, consider an inexpensive grow light.

The watering schedule is where most of us go wrong. I only water my succulents when their soil is completely dry. In winter, some of my succulents go nearly a month between drinks! They actually prefer this neglect.

Temperature fluctuations help too. Most desert regions get cool at night, even when days are hot. My succulents sit on a windowsill that gets cooler at night, and they seem to appreciate this natural rhythm.

Creating these desert-like conditions might seem fussy, but it’s actually less work in the long run. My succulents need less attention than any other plants I grow.

2) Place succulents in bright, indirect sunlight for optimal growth

I learned the hard way that sunlight for succulents is like Goldilocks’ porridge—it needs to be just right! Most succulents thrive in bright but indirect sunlight, a fact I wish someone had told me before I fried my first Echeveria on my south-facing windowsill.

When I first started growing these fleshy little plants, I assumed they wanted as much sun as possible. After all, don’t they grow in deserts? My mistake! In nature, many succulents actually grow under larger plants that provide dappled shade.

Finding the perfect spot in your home makes all the difference. I’ve noticed my succulents do best near south-facing windows where they get plenty of brightness without the harsh afternoon rays directly hitting their leaves. East-facing windows are my second favorite spot—morning sun is gentler than afternoon sun.

If your succulent starts stretching or leaning toward light (we plant geeks call this “etiolation”), it’s crying out for more brightness. I’ve rescued many stretched plants by simply moving them to a brighter location.

Not all succulents have the same light needs though. My Haworthias seem perfectly content in bright indirect light and actually burn in direct sun. My Echeverias, on the other hand, love a bit more direct morning light to maintain their compact shape.

During winter months, I move most of my succulents closer to windows since the sunlight is less intense and days are shorter. They might not grow much, but they’ll remain healthy until spring returns.

I’ve found that proper lighting prevents most common succulent problems. Too little light creates weak, stretched plants; too much creates sunburned patches that never heal. The sweet spot of bright indirect light helps them develop their best colors and form.

3) Water sparingly, allowing soil to dry out completely between waterings

I’ve killed more succulents by being too loving than by neglect. It took me years to realize that my well-intentioned weekly watering schedule was actually drowning my poor desert plants!

The biggest secret to succulent success is understanding their natural habitat. These plants evolved in dry environments where rain comes infrequently. Their plump leaves are designed to store water for long periods of drought.

When I water my succulents now, I wait until the soil is completely dry—not just on the surface, but all the way through. This might mean waiting a week or two between waterings, depending on your climate.

I’ve found that the “soak and dry” method works best. When it’s time to water, I thoroughly drench the soil until water runs out the drainage holes. Then I leave them alone until the soil is bone dry again.

During winter, my succulents barely need water at all. I’ve switched to watering them about once a month in cooler months, and they’re much happier for it.

One trick I use to check if they need water: I stick a wooden chopstick deep into the soil. If it comes out completely dry, it’s watering time. If there’s any moisture clinging to it, I wait longer.

Remember that high humidity affects drying time too. When I moved my plants to my bathroom window, I noticed the soil stayed wet much longer. Now I factor in humidity when deciding when to water.

The most important thing I’ve learned is to let the plants guide me. When succulents need water, their leaves often look slightly shriveled or less plump. This is their way of telling you they’re ready for a drink!

4) Use a well-draining cactus mix to prevent root rot

When I first started growing succulents, I made the rookie mistake of using regular potting soil. My poor little jade plant turned to mush within weeks! I’ve since learned that the right soil mix is absolutely crucial.

Succulents need a special mix that drains quickly. Regular potting soil holds too much moisture and will literally drown your plants. I’ve found that making the perfect cactus soil mix isn’t complicated, but it is essential.

In my garden shed, I always keep the basic ingredients for my succulent soil. A good mix typically combines regular potting soil with materials like perlite, pumice, or coarse sand. These ingredients create air pockets that allow water to flow through quickly.

One secret I’ve discovered is to use coarse builders grade sand rather than fine, powdery sand. The coarser texture prevents compaction and maintains those critical air spaces your succulents need.

I’ve killed enough plants to know that peat moss can be problematic in succulent mixes. It breaks down over time and eventually compacts the soil, defeating the purpose of your well-draining mix.

My favorite mix ratio is about 50% potting soil and 50% drainage material. Sometimes I’ll tweak this depending on my local climate and the specific plants. Desert cacti generally need even more drainage than leafy succulents.

I test my mix by wetting it and checking how quickly water runs through. If it holds water for more than a few seconds, I add more drainage material. This simple test has saved countless plants in my collection!

Remember, with the right soil mix, you’re not just providing nutrients and support – you’re actively preventing root rot, which is the number one killer of succulents in my experience.

5) Propagate with leaves to multiply your collection easily

I discovered leaf propagation by accident. A few leaves fell off my echeveria and started growing tiny plants at their bases. It felt like finding free money! This simple method has tripled my succulent collection without spending an extra penny.

To start, I gently twist a healthy leaf from the plant, making sure to get the entire leaf with its base intact. This part is crucial – if the leaf tears, it probably won’t propagate. I’ve learned that succulent leaves need to be removed by twisting gently rather than pulling straight off.

After removing the leaves, I let them dry for 3-5 days on a paper towel. This “callusing” period helps prevent rot and gives the leaf a better chance of success. Patience is key here!

Next, I place the callused leaves on top of well-draining soil – not buried, just resting on the surface. I keep them in bright, indirect light and mist them occasionally when the soil looks dry.

The magic usually happens within 2-4 weeks. Tiny roots appear first, followed by adorable baby plants at the base of the leaf. It’s like watching miniature aliens emerge!

I’ve found this method works exceptionally well with fleshy-leaved succulents like jade plants and echeveria. Not every leaf will take, but even a 50% success rate means lots of new plants.

Sometimes my succulents multiply on their own, producing baby plants around their base. These “pups” can be gently separated once they’re about an inch in size and replanted in their own pots.

I’ve turned one echeveria into twelve plants using this method! It’s become somewhat addictive watching my leaf nursery grow each week. The best part? Sharing the babies with friends who think I’m some kind of plant wizard.

6) Fertilize sparingly with a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer

I used to think my succulents needed fertilizer as often as my other houseplants. Boy, was I wrong! After killing a few prized specimens with fertilizer burn, I learned that succulents actually thrive in nutrient-poor soil and need very minimal feeding.

The key is using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer specifically formulated for succulents. Regular plant food often contains too much nitrogen, which causes succulents to grow weak and stretched out. Not exactly the compact, chunky plants we’re aiming for!

I only fertilize my succulents twice a year at most. Spring is the perfect time when daytime temperatures stay above 60 degrees F, and then maybe once more in early fall. Any more than that is just asking for trouble.

Here’s my little secret: I dilute the fertilizer to half the recommended strength on the package. Even when the instructions say “diluted,” I go even weaker. My succulents have never complained about this diet plan!

For my indoor collection, I’ve found that fertilizing isn’t strictly necessary. Many of my potted succulents have gone years without any extra nutrients and still look fabulous. If they’re growing well, I leave them be.

I’ve also discovered that different types of succulents have different needs. My Echeverias and Haworthias are especially sensitive to overfertilizing, so I’m extra cautious with them.

Remember, with succulents, less is definitely more when it comes to fertilizer. I’d rather have slightly hungry plants than dead ones from fertilizer burn!

7) Rotate plants regularly for even light exposure

I used to think succulents were so tough they wouldn’t care which way they faced. Boy, was I wrong! I noticed my echeverias leaning dramatically toward my window like they were trying to escape. That’s when I realized even these desert dwellers crave balanced sunlight.

Plants naturally grow toward light sources. When they only get light from one direction, they become lopsided and stretched out. I’ve found that rotating plants sitting on a windowsill regularly helps them grow more evenly.

My simple trick? I give each pot a quarter turn every few days. This prevents my succulents from becoming the leaning towers of plant-za! It might seem like a small thing, but it makes a huge difference in their appearance and health.

This rotation habit is especially important for plants under grow lights. Last winter, I noticed the succulents directly under my light were thriving while the ones on the edges looked sad. I started changing which plants were centrally under the grow light every couple of days.

The results were amazing! All my plants started growing more symmetrically, with better color and compact shapes. No more weird stretching or leaning.

I’ve found that setting a reminder on my phone helps me remember to rotate them. Otherwise, I’d definitely forget! Just a quick spin while I’m having my morning coffee is all it takes.

8) Keep succulents away from cold drafts; they love warmth

I learned this lesson the hard way when I placed my prized jade plant near a drafty window last winter. Within weeks, its plump leaves shriveled and developed brown spots. Turns out, succulents are secret heat-lovers!

Most succulents can’t handle temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, which makes sense when you think about their desert origins. I’ve found that sudden temperature fluctuations stress them out even more than consistent cool weather.

In my experience, the sneakiest cold spots in homes are near windows, doors, and air vents. I once had an aloe that was perfectly happy until I turned on the heating system for winter – the direct blast from the vent shocked it into dropping leaves.

For happy succulents, I keep mine in comfortably warm locations away from drafts. My kitchen windowsill works perfectly because it’s warm and bright but doesn’t get any cold air when I open the back door.

If you live in a colder climate like I did in Michigan, bringing your outdoor succulents inside during winter is crucial. I’ve found that sheltering them indoors during cold months keeps them thriving year after year.

The warmth factor is why my bathroom succulents do surprisingly well – they love that steamy shower heat! Just make sure they also get enough light to balance things out.

9) Gritty soil mixes work best to mimic arid environments

I remember my first batch of succulents. They looked so perky in the store, but within weeks they turned to mush in my regular potting soil. That’s when I discovered the magic of gritty mixes!

Succulents and cacti evolved in dry, rocky environments. They hate having wet feet! Standard potting soil holds too much moisture and suffocates their roots. My plants were drowning in kindness.

A good gritty mix includes pumice, vermiculite, lava rocks, perlite, and/or akadama. These mineral components create air pockets around roots, allowing them to breathe and preventing rot. I’ve had incredible results mixing these components for my desert plants.

You can find pre-made options like Bonsai Jack’s Gritty Mix, which has the perfect blend to mimic natural arid soil conditions. I started using this for my most finicky succulents, and the difference was amazing!

Creating your own mix is fun too. I combine about 1 part organic material (like coconut coir) with 2-3 parts inorganic materials (pumice, perlite, coarse sand). This ratio gives my plants just enough nutrients without trapping excess moisture.

Watering changes with gritty mixes. The water drains quickly, so I drench thoroughly but less frequently. My succulents now go 2-3 weeks between waterings and look better than ever!

One caution – not all plants thrive in super gritty soil. Standard houseplants, Christmas cactus, and some vining succulents prefer a bit more moisture retention. I learned this the hard way with my poor Christmas cactus!

10) Use terra cotta pots for better soil aeration

I discovered the magic of terra cotta pots quite by accident. After killing several succulents in decorative glazed containers, I switched to those orangey-brown clay pots out of budget constraints. Suddenly, my succulents started thriving!

Terra cotta pots are actually breathable containers that help succulents do well. The porous nature of the clay allows air to move through the pot walls, providing oxygen to the roots and helping excess moisture evaporate.

Many of my plant friends ask about plastic pots because they’re cheaper and lighter. While they work in a pinch, I’ve noticed my succulents in terra cotta consistently look healthier than their plastic-potted cousins.

The porosity of terra cotta creates a beneficial environment around the roots. When I water my jade plant in terra cotta, the pot actually absorbs some moisture, preventing the soggy conditions that lead to root rot – the number one succulent killer in my experience!

I love how terra cotta develops character over time. The minerals in water leave interesting patterns on the outside, creating a lived-in look that pairs beautifully with the soft greens and purples of my succulent collection.

For those worried about terra cotta drying out too quickly, I have a simple trick: water thoroughly but less frequently. My succulents actually prefer this pattern – it mimics their natural desert conditions of occasional drenching followed by dry periods.

I’ve found the contrast of terra cotta pots with succulents creates a stunning visual effect too. The earthy orange backdrop makes the blue-greens and purples of most succulents really pop!

11) Repot every 1-2 years to refresh soil and encourage growth

I used to wonder why my succulents would start looking sad after thriving for a year or so. The answer was simple once I figured it out – they needed fresh soil!

Even though succulents are low-maintenance, they still deplete nutrients from their soil over time. Repotting every 1-2 years gives them fresh nutrients and promotes healthier roots.

I’ve learned that when my succulents look slightly crowded or growth slows down, it’s time for new digs. Sometimes I’ll notice roots peeking out of drainage holes – that’s definitely a sign they need more space!

The best time to repot is during the growing season (spring or early summer) when your plants are actively growing. I made the mistake of repotting in winter once, and my poor echeveria sulked for months.

When repotting, I gently remove the plant, brush away old soil from the roots, and check for any issues. It’s like a mini health check-up for your succulent friends!

Fresh soil makes a huge difference. I use a special succulent mix with plenty of drainage. Sometimes I’ll add extra perlite or pumice if I’m feeling fancy.

This regular refreshing does more than provide nutrients – it promotes healthy root development and helps prevent root rot, which is the nemesis of any succulent lover.

Don’t forget to let newly repotted succulents rest for a few days before watering. I learned this the hard way after drowning a few plants that had minor root damage from the repotting process.

12) “Succulents appreciate a little stress to thrive.” – A veteran gardener

I discovered this counterintuitive secret after killing several “impossible-to-kill” succulents by being too nice to them. It sounds strange, but these desert-adapted plants actually perform better with a bit of neglect.

When I first started growing succulents, I watered them like my other houseplants. Big mistake! They turned mushy and sad. Then a veteran gardener at my local nursery told me, “Louis, you’re loving them to death. Succulents need some stress to show their true colors.”

This advice transformed my succulent game. I started letting my plants dry out completely between waterings. Some of my echeverias and sedums developed beautiful stress colors – reds, purples, and oranges that never appeared when I babied them.

I’ve found that mild drought stress encourages stronger root systems. My succulents now grow more compact and sturdy rather than stretched and leggy. They’re actually healthier when I forget about them for a while!

Temperature fluctuations can benefit them too. My outdoor succulents that experience cool nights and warm days develop the most spectacular colors and growth patterns.

Even crowded pots seem to make succulents happier. I once left a small haworthia in a tiny pot for too long. Instead of suffering, it surprised me by producing three pups!

The trick is finding the right balance. I don’t completely abandon my plants, but I’ve learned that a little tough love brings out their desert-adapted superpowers. Just remember – there’s a difference between beneficial stress and outright neglect.

13) Check for pests like mealybugs and treat immediately

I learned this lesson the hard way when my prized echeveria became infested with tiny white fuzzy bugs seemingly overnight. Those sneaky mealybugs can destroy a succulent collection faster than you’d believe!

These pests love to hide in the nooks between leaves and in the center of rosette-shaped succulents. I make it a habit to inspect my plants weekly, looking for cotton-like patches that signal trouble. Early detection truly makes all the difference.

When I spot mealybugs, I immediately grab my spray bottle of 70% isopropyl alcohol. It works like magic! I spray the entire plant, paying special attention to those hidden crevices where the bugs love to party.

For stubborn infestations, I’ll use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to directly touch each visible bug. It’s oddly satisfying to watch them dissolve on contact. Just be careful not to oversaturate your plants.

I’ve found that changing the soil of infected plants helps prevent reinfestation. Those little pests can lay eggs in the soil, creating a never-ending cycle of frustration if you don’t address it.

Quarantine is crucial! I learned this after watching mealybugs hop from one plant to my entire collection. Now I immediately isolate any infected plant until I’m certain the problem is solved.

Prevention matters too. I keep my growing area clean and avoid overwatering, which can attract pests. Some gardeners use preventative sprays regularly, but I prefer to treat only when necessary to avoid stressing my plants.

Remember, healthy succulents can better resist pest attacks. So good care practices are your first line of defense against these annoying little bugs!

14) Consider a south-facing window for maximum sunlight exposure

I discovered this secret by accident when I moved my sad, stretching succulents from my north-facing office to my south-facing kitchen window. The transformation was almost magical! Within weeks, my formerly pale echeverias developed rich colors and compact growth.

Most succulents crave abundant light. In my experience, a south-facing window provides the best light with more hours of daylight than any other orientation, especially for those of us in the northern hemisphere.

I’ve noticed that my succulents positioned near east-facing windows get bright morning sun, which is gentler. It’s a good second choice if you don’t have south-facing options. West-facing windows can work too, though afternoon sun can sometimes be more intense.

When I first started growing succulents indoors, I made the rookie mistake of placing them in spots that looked good rather than spots that provided enough light. My poor plants stretched out, becoming leggy and pale – a condition called etiolation.

If you’re struggling with limited natural light, don’t do what I initially did and just hope for the best! Growing succulents near a window is the easiest solution.

I’ve found that the farther north you live, the more critical window placement becomes. During winter months when daylight hours shorten, I sometimes rotate my plants to ensure all sides get equal light exposure.

One thing I wish someone had told me earlier: even in south-facing windows, some succulents might still not get enough light during cloudy winter days. For these situations, I’ve found that supplemental grow lights can make all the difference.

15) Don’t mist succulents; they prefer a soak in water

I made this mistake for years—spritzing my succulents with a little water bottle, thinking I was doing them a favor. Boy, was I wrong! Turns out, misting succulents is actually one of the worst ways to water them.

In the wild, succulents don’t experience gentle mists of water. They evolved to handle deep but infrequent waterings, much like the occasional desert downpour. They’re built for feast or famine when it comes to water.

When I finally learned to thoroughly drench my succulents, they transformed. The difference was like night and day! Their colors brightened, and they started growing like never before.

The trick is to wait until your succulent shows signs of thirst. Look for slightly wrinkled leaves or a less plump appearance. That’s your plant saying, “I’m ready for a drink now!”

When watering time comes, don’t hold back. I like to completely soak the soil until water runs out the drainage holes. This encourages deep root growth and mimics their natural growing conditions.

After giving them a good drink, the most important step is to let them dry out completely. I mean bone dry! This might mean watering weekly in summer and monthly in winter, but every plant and environment is different.

My jade plant actually tells me when it’s thirsty now—its leaves get a bit soft and less shiny. I’ve learned that listening to what my plants are telling me works better than following a strict schedule.

Remember that misting can actually cause more harm than good. Those water droplets sitting on leaves can lead to rot or fungal issues. Trust me, I’ve lost some beautiful plants this way!

Understanding Succulent Needs

I’ve learned through years of trial and error that succulents aren’t as low-maintenance as everyone claims. These fascinating plants have specific needs that, once understood, make all the difference between sad, etiolated specimens and plump, colorful beauties.

Light Requirements

Most succulents need way more light than people realize! I placed my first echeverias on a north-facing windowsill and watched them stretch into unrecognizable shapes. That’s when I discovered they were desperately reaching for more sunlight.

Most succulents evolved in bright, sunny environments and need at least 6 hours of bright light daily. My desert varieties like cacti and agaves thrive in full sun, while softer succulents like haworthias prefer bright indirect light.

I’ve found that inadequate sunlight is the number one reason succulents fail indoors. If you notice your plants stretching or losing their compact shape, they’re begging for more light!

During winter months, I supplement with grow lights when necessary. Even the “low light” succulents still need brighter conditions than most houseplants.

Proper Watering Techniques

The biggest secret I’ve discovered about succulents? It’s almost impossible to underwater them, but incredibly easy to overwater them. I killed dozens before I understood this fundamental truth.

The “soak and dry” method works best. I drench the soil completely, then wait until it’s 100% dry before watering again. For most of my collection, this means watering every 2-3 weeks, or even less in winter.

I’ve learned to look for signs of thirst instead of following a schedule. Slightly wrinkled leaves or softer-than-normal texture tells me it’s time to water. Plump, firm leaves mean they’re still storing plenty of moisture.

The pot matters enormously! I only use containers with drainage holes and fast-draining soil. My mix is usually 50% cactus soil and 50% perlite or pumice for extra drainage.

During their dormant season (usually winter), I cut back watering by half. This mimics their natural cycle and prevents root rot during times when they’re barely growing.

Choosing the Right Soil and Containers

The foundation of successful succulent growing starts with what’s beneath and around them. I’ve learned through many crispy plant casualties that the right soil mix and proper containers make all the difference between thriving plants and sad, rotting ones.

Ideal Soil Mix

When I first started growing succulents, I used regular potting soil—big mistake! Succulents need special soil that drains quickly. I now make my own mix using 2 parts regular potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part coarse sand. The perlite and sand create air pockets that help water flow through quickly.

Adequate drainage is absolutely crucial. I sometimes add a small layer of gravel at the bottom of containers for extra drainage, though some gardeners debate this practice.

Remember that succulents don’t need soil rich in nutrients. I actually use fertilizer at a more diluted strength than recommended since succulents don’t grow loads of greenery like other plants.

Container Selection

Trust me, not all pots are created equal for succulents! I’ve had the best success with terracotta or unglazed ceramic pots. These materials are porous and allow excess moisture to evaporate through the sides.

The pot size matters too. I follow a simple rule: choose a container that’s just slightly larger than the plant’s root system.

There’s no one-size-fits-all recommendation—it depends entirely on your plant’s size.

Always, always make sure your pots have drainage holes! I once tried to be clever with a cute container without holes, and my poor echeveria turned to mush within weeks.

For shallow-rooted succulents like Sempervivums, I prefer wide, shallow dishes rather than deep pots. My Haworthias, with their longer roots, do better in standard-depth containers.